The Best Recipe: Soups & Stews Review

The Best Recipe: Soups and Stews
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The Best Recipe books have an interesting perspective on cooking and cookbooks. Resolutely scientific, recipes are developed in their test kitchens according to methodical experimentation -- you get not only the best recipe, but insight into the variations of the recipe that failed. This makes for interesting reading, and highlights many practical errors and pitfalls that spoil a good clam chowder or weaken a chicken paprikash. For example, they put to test the idea that beef bourguignon is only as good as the wine used in the cooking. (The answer, sadly, is yes -- good wine makes better beef bourguignon.) In many places, this puts them at odds with staunch traditionalists, advocating, for example, the use of canned stock in certain dishes (which is tantamount for many cooks to a heresy). The systematic approach might then threaten the art of cooking, while advocating a new scientific approach, but the results in my experience (not only this book but also from cooking illustrated from which the recipes are drawn) tend to be quite good -- and like any good scientific result, reliable.
It is worth noting that because of this detailed approach to classic dishes as problems that must be solved, there are relatively few recipes in the book relative to its length. I enjoy the reports, though they might put off someone looking for straightforward recipes.

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